What ingredients should I avoid in skincare?

It is a question that comes up again and again. You turn over a moisturiser, squint at the back of the bottle, and realise you cannot pronounce half of what is in it. Many common skincare ingredients have a poor safety record, known irritant potential, or environmental impacts that most brands simply do not talk about.

The truth is that your skin is your body's largest organ and absorbs a proportion of what you put on it. While this is a background concern for some, it becomes pressing for those with sensitive skin, hormonal conditions, or those managing a serious illness.

If you are looking for a quick checklist, the primary ingredients to watch out for are parabens, sulphates (SLS and SLES), synthetic fragrances, mineral oils, and phthalates.

A Note from Gemma, Founder of Puremess

I started Puremess after my third breast cancer diagnosis, when I began looking more carefully at what I was putting on my skin. I thought I was using a good natural brand until I read the label properly. That moment of realisation is what this brand is built on: transparency and ingredients with a purpose you can understand.

The Skincare Ingredients Most Worth Avoiding

1. Are parabens really that bad?

Parabens like methylparaben and propylparaben are synthetic preservatives used to extend shelf life. The concern is that they are endocrine disruptors that can mimic oestrogen and interfere with hormone signalling. While the direct link to human harm is still debated, they have been detected in human breast tissue.

What to look for: Look for anything ending in paraben

The Puremess Alternative: We use plant-derived preservative systems that are effective without hormonal concerns

2. Why do sulphates (SLS and SLES) irritate my skin?

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) are foaming agents that strip the skin of its natural oils. For those with eczema, rosacea, or a dry skin barrier, they are common triggers for tightness and flare-ups.

What to look for: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, Sodium Laureth Sulphate, or Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate.

The Puremess Alternative: Our Organic Shampoo and Body Wash ranges are entirely free from SLS and SLES. Instead, we use gentler, plant-based cleansers like Sodium Coco-Sulfate

What is Sodium Coco-Sulfate?

We believe in being completely transparent about our ingredients. While the name sounds similar to SLS, Sodium Coco-Sulfate is derived from the whole fatty acids of coconut oil. It is a much larger molecule that cannot penetrate the skin in the same way SLS does, making it significantly gentler while still providing the effective, creamy lather our customers love. It allows us to provide a deep clean without stripping your skin's natural balance.

3. Is "fragrance" in skincare harmful?

The term "fragrance" or "parfum" is a catch-all for sometimes hundreds of undisclosed chemical compounds. It is a leading cause of allergic contact dermatitis. Because the ingredients are hidden, you cannot identify specific triggers.

What to look for: "Fragrance", "Parfum", or "Aroma".

The Puremess Alternative: We scent products only with pure essential oils, which are listed individually on every label.

4. Mineral oil and petroleum derivatives

Mineral oil, petrolatum, and paraffin are byproducts of petroleum refining. They create a barrier that locks in moisture but offers zero nourishment. For acne-prone skin, they can trap bacteria and cause breakouts.

What to look for: Mineral oil, Petrolatum, Paraffin, or Cera Microcristallina.

The Puremess Alternative: We use rosehip, argan, shea, and jojoba oils that mirror the skin's lipid structure and actively nourish it.

5. Phthalates

These plasticising chemicals help fragrances last longer. Like parabens, they are classified as endocrine disruptors with concerns regarding reproductive health.

What to look for: Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) or Diethyl phthalate (DEP), though they are often hidden inside "fragrance" listings.

6. Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives

Formaldehyde is a known human carcinogen. While not added directly, some preservatives like DMDM Hydantoin slowly release it over time.

What to look for: DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Quaternium-15, or Bronopol.

7. Oxybenzone in sunscreen

This chemical UV filter is a known skin sensitiser and hormone disruptor. It is also toxic to coral reefs and has been banned in several locations.

What to look for: Oxybenzone or Benzophenone-3.

Are "natural" ingredients always safe?

It is important to know that "natural" does not automatically mean non-irritating.

Essential Oils: Citrus and spice oils can be photosensitising at high concentrations.

Sodium Bicarbonate (Bicarb): This has a high pH that can disrupt the skin’s acid mantle. Puremess formulates bicarb-free deodorants specifically for those with sensitive skin.

How to check your current skincare

You do not need a chemistry degree to read labels. Use these reliable tools to decode your products:

INCI Beauty: You can paste an ingredient list for a plain-English breakdown.

CosDNA: This tool analyses lists for acne triggers and safety concerns.

EWG Skin Deep: This database rates ingredients based on available research.

Brand Websites: Transparent brands should list every ingredient clearly.

What should I look for instead?

Seek ingredients that work with your biology:

Rosehip Oil: Supports barrier repair and is rich in linoleic acid.

Jojoba: Closely resembles the skin’s own sebum.

Oat Beta-Glucan: Deeply soothing and anti-inflammatory.

Remember: Ingredients are listed in descending order by concentration. If the beneficial plant extracts are at the very bottom, the formula may be less natural than the marketing suggests.

Frequently Asked Questions

• What ingredients should I avoid during pregnancy? Generally, it is advised to avoid retinoids, high-concentration salicylic acid, synthetic fragrance, and chemical filters like oxybenzone.

• What does "clean beauty" mean? There is no legal definition in the UK. It varies by brand, so look for ingredient transparency rather than just a "clean" label.

Ready to simplify your routine? You can take our Skin Quiz at puremessskincare.com to find the right products for your needs, or browse our full range of paraben and sulphate-free skincare.